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Noble American Cookery

01/18/2010

Fine New American Cuisine
http://www.noblecookery.com

Seasoned veteran Executive chef Brinn Sinnott has recently taken the helm at Noble American Cookery, after having graced the kitchens of Lacroix, Supper, Amada, and Pumpkin. Noble is located on the charming little block of Sansom Street between 20th and 21st, which is a veritable treasure trove of shopping, eating, and entertainment. On this block sits a little Roxy Theatre, comedy clubs, Italian BYOBs, music and gift shops galore.

The ambiance of Noble is set with the first tug of the heavy door, made from reclaimed wood as is most of the furniture in the classy yet rustic establishment. The bar is made from 400-year-old naturally-fallen bubinga wood. Candlelit tables create an intimate setting.

Starting off with the appetizer of the Seared Scallops will awaken the palette with harmonious flavors of tender scallop, earthy truffle and cauliflower puree, and bright grapefruit. The small burst of citrus blends so divinely with the other textures and the components complement each other so well.

The Gnocchi Parisienne appetizer has a slight crispy shell surrounding a creamy delight inside. It is paired with sliced leeks, juicy trumpet royale mushrooms, and sunchoke puree. I had to reread the menu to figure out what that blissful white cloud that lay beneath the gnocchi, my first sunchokes ever and what a success. Beautifully composed and artfully done.

The star of the evening was the Pan-Roasted Duck Breast. It had a thin layer of duck fat which caramelized and added that wisp of crispness. It was succulent and tender, served on a bed of fried chard and cranberry mole and accompanied with a sage and bacon stuffing. The cranberry mole had that perfect little sweetness and Latin kick that brought the dish to its full potential.

Pan roasted Duck Breast

The rich, decadent dark chocolate oozes from the Chocolate-Pecan tart with a generous dollop of bourbon whipped cream seated on top. The Pumpkin Custard comes in an adorable little brown cauldron with ricotta cream and slightly-oversized black pepper-infused candied walnut. While the idea of the candied walnut seemed right, it was awkward in size and the black pepper flavor was a bit off-putting.

However, the eatery is in a transition period and foodies should be excited about things to come. Inside sources claim the pumpkin custard will be on its way out and fresh new desserts (and other menu items) are on the way. In the warmer months, outside seating is available and a rooftop garden will flourish.

Chocolate Pecan Tart

Noble American Cookery
2025 Sansom St.
Philadelphia, PA
215.568.7000

Hours

Dinner

  • Tues and Wed 5-10 pm
  • Thurs thru Sat 5 -11 pm
  • Sunday 5 – 9 pm

Brunch

  • Sunday: 11 am – 3 pm

Closed Mondays

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